Walking the salt routes

Looking for painting sites near Buoux, a tiny hamlet in the heart of the Aiguebrun valley this weekend, David and I walked some of the salt routes that run through the Luberon.  In provencal they were known as 'lou camin salié.

These ancient cobbled pathways were used for moving salt from the salt pans of the Camargue into the hinterland.  Known as white gold and once as valuable ounce for ounce as gold, the Fort at Buoux had to protect the salt trains as they made their way slowly north.  Salt played its part in opening up the interior of France, establishing early trade routes through unpopulated areas.  Many of the first roads were enlarged salt routes, which in turn were based on sheep tracks.   Mules were used to bring it through the hills and along the perilous tiny paths.  The beautiful winding road from Lourmarin to Bonnieux was one of these paths which was eventually widened to take carts then cars.

The paths that David and I were taking were lined with high dry stone walls and even the most remote parts showed signs that the land had once been cultivated with deep terraces reaching up into the wilderness.