Arts in Provence

ARTS IN PROVENCE
Welcome to the Arts in Provence Blog. This is a blog about life in Les Bassacs, a small hamlet in the South of France, where we organise summer painting courses. You can find out about the courses by going to our website.

Monday, January 20, 2014

Marc Chagall in Gordes

Marc Chagall left Paris in 1940, concerned about his possible arrest as a 'degenerate' by the occupying German troops.  Although his work had been popular in Germany, by 1937  the new German leadership had begun to mock his art, describing his paintings as "green, purple, and red Jews shooting out of the earth, fiddling on violins, flying through the air ... representing [an] assault on Western civilization." 

Packing up his Paris studio, Chagall took the paintings off their stretchers and piled them into a taxi. The Chagall family initially moved to Saint Dyé-sur-Loire, then in May 1940 they moved to Gordes, at the behest of his friend André Lhote who already had a house there. They bought an old mill in the Fontaine Basse area of the village.  All his work was transported there and he continued to paint in the studio at the top of the house.


Still Life Gordes 1940




















During the winter of 1940-1941 Chagall resumed work on The Madonna of the Village.


















He was very happy in Gordes and remarked " There, in the south of France, for the first time in my life, I saw that rich greenness—the like of which I had never seen in my own country." However, Chagall was not safe from being deported in Gordes.  Varian Fry, envoy of the Emergency Rescue Committee in France, who had arrived in Marseille with the intention of rescuing intellectuals persecuted by the Nazis and helping them to escape from Europe, visited Chagall and offered to help him escape to America. Chagall initially refused the invitation, but when the Vichy government began interning Jews, he realised he had no choice


Chagall on the steps to his studio

 Of meeting Chagall Varian Fry wrote;

“Spent the week-end with the Chagalls at Gordes. We passed two truckloads of German soldiers between Marseille and Aix and not another car all the way.  We arrived in time for lunch.  Gordes is charming, tumbled down old town on the edge of a vast and peaceful valley.  It used to manufacture shoes, but when shoe-making machinery was introduced its craftsmen moved away and most of the town is in ruins.  The Chagall’s house is the only one in the immediate neighbourhood which had not fallen in.  I can see why they don't want to leave it is an enchanted place.  Chagall is a nice child, vain and simple.  He likes to talk about his pictures and the world, and he slops around in folded old pants and dark blue shirt.  His “studio” contains a big kitchen table, a few wicker chairs, a cheap screen, a coal stove, two easels and his pictures. No chic at all, as chez Matisse.





Visit by Varian Fry, Bella and Marc in the garden with Madonna of the village
















In April 1941, Marc and his wife Bella left Gordes for Marseille on their way to the United States.  They crossed the French-Spanish border by train, then continued onto Lisbon, where they arrived on 11 May. In Lisbon they waited until mid-June to embark for New York.  They left their daughter Ida and her husband behind in the house in Gordes giving them the task of arranging the transportation of Chagall's 600 kilos of paintings. Chagall remained in America until after the war when he returned to France.  He went to live in Vence on the Cote d'Azur alongside Picasso, Matisse and Braque.

The Chagall family retained the house in Gordes, Marc staying there occasionally with his second wife Vava.  Ida and her second husband took the house on, living and working there until Ida eventually sold it to its present occupier whom we met when taking this photograph.



Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Eurostar direct train bookings open today



The Eurostar direct train from St Pancras to Avignon tickets are available from today!  You can click here to book.

Monday, November 25, 2013

James Bland wins Winsor & Newton Oil Painters Awards 2013

Our congratulations go to James Bland, teaching for the first time at Les bassacs in September 2014, who has won the Winsor & Newton Oil Painters Awards 2013 for under 35's with his atmospheric painting "Reclining Figure, Evening".




















It will be exhibited at the Mall Galleries in the Royal Institute of Oil Painters Annual Exhibition 2013.

Thursday, November 21, 2013

Les Bassacs map cushion

Jane Revitt, artist and designer who regularly comes to Les Bassacs, has produced this beautiful cushion of the area.

 


She has used a map from 1903, first published in La Grande Encyclopédie.  It is easy to see where Les Bassacs is in relation to the artful shading which denotes the relief in the landscape and lends it its distinct graphic feel.  Jane's wonderful cushion can be bought from her website here




The towns and villages that are picked out reflect the shift in population that has taken place since 1903, with Croagnes being given a prominence that it wouldn't now have as its population has dwindled to 3 or 4 permanent residents.  This fluctuation in population is the same for many of the hameaux shown on the cushion.

Croagnes serves as a good illustration of this process.  It seems to have been continuously inhabited from roman times when it had a substantial villa, it was noted as a community of some standing in 997, and by 1122 had a cleric and a group of inhabitants regularly attending church services.  In 1293 there were 10 families living there when they were granted the right to a communal bake house to cook their bread. By 1396, following the hundred years war,  the place was ruined and abandoned, not to be repopulated until 17th century when it reached its zenith comprising a community of 70 families. The fact that it had a church in 1903 probably merits its appearance on the map.  Les Bassacs would have undergone a similar evolution.



Croagnes from Les Bassacs

part of the cross in the centre of Croagnes

Monday, November 18, 2013

Programme 2014



 The programme for 2014 is ready, a little delayed after two of our tutors, who shall remain nameless, went AWOL at a crucial moment!  You can see what is on offer by clicking on Arts in Provence 2014 brochure

Monday, October 28, 2013

End of season

Since the end of the season we have been in Antibes, Berlin and England.  Planning for 2014 is well underway with a few loose ends to tie up before we can confirm the dates.  

October has been a warm and sunny month and one of our neighbours commented the other day that we could still be running courses, the weather has been so stunning.  The warmth has meant that the garden needs watering and today the Rosa Banksiae decided to have another go at flowering. It has put forth a clutch of rosebuds and an open bloom, its first since May!
















We appreciate a chance to get out and explore the valley before the winter sets in and we are always looking for new outcrops of ocher which might serve as painting spots. This abandoned quarry near Roussillon provided us with some spectacular shapes and colour juxtapositions.

























As well as some very beautiful mushrooms lurking in the soft sandy soil.


Thursday, September 26, 2013

Early morning view from the terrace

A cloudy start to the day was enlivened by the rising sun making Roussillon glow, producing this rather startling effect to entertain us over breakfast.

Monday, September 23, 2013

Snails!


The massing of millions of tiny white snails has long been a feature of the Provencal summer, with every post or fence by mid July being festooned with these little creatures.  This species of snail Cernuella is very common in Provence and have adapted to the summer heat by undergoing aestivation a dormant state which prevents them from drying out in the hot weather.  The snails are edible and feature in a traditional Provencal soup.  I can't see us serving them any time soon for supper at Les Bassacs though!



Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Lavender Cutting

We are back from our short break in August and there is a definite feel of late summer in the air.  Until 3 weeks ago David was painting until 9.45 pm, but now dusk is on us almost an hour earlier.  We are however rewarded with beautiful warm, still evenings when the countryside is awash with deep greens and inky black shadows.




The lavender was harvested weeks ago and has been left to dry where it was cut; little stooks litter the fields.




When we first came here all the lavender was cut by hand using small sickles but now it is a rare sight.  This field between Les Bassacs and Les Cordiers has been cut in the traditional way. The crop is small and not large enough to warrant the use of a harvester.  Once dried these stooks were pitched into a trailer.


 and taken to be processed at the distillery at Castellet which is run by this lone and ancient distiller!










Monday, July 22, 2013

Hot colour and thunder clouds

We have hot, hot weather here as has most of Europe. While we expect it at this time of year, what we are not used to are the daily evening thunder clouds and occasional downpours that they bring. 



The upside of these evening showers is that the countryside is blooming and the colours are beautifully fresh.